Index / Field Notes / Trek Guide
9,350 Feet of Home
The route, the campsite, the 22 curves, and what the Dhauladhar looks like before sunrise. Written by someone who lives below it.
The Dhauladhar range takes up the entire northern sky when you live in Kangra. Not as a backdrop. As a presence. I grew up looking at that wall of grey rock, and Triund is the point where you stop looking and step onto it.
I have walked this trail in March when the rhododendrons are so dense you smell them before you see them. I have sat at the top in October when the air has that particular cold clarity that makes the Pir Panjal look like it is three kilometres away instead of thirty. I have also turned back in July because the clouds came in so fast you could not see your feet on the path.
Getting to the trailhead
McLeodganj is where most people start, but the Triund trailhead is at Dharamkot, a small village 30 to 40 minutes further uphill. You can walk it. Most people take a shared taxi for ₹20–30 and save their legs for the actual trek.
The forest office is at Dharamkot. Stop there before you start. There is a lot of confusion online about whether Triund requires a permit at all. The requirement to produce a permit applies to going beyond Triund toward Snowline Cafe and the higher camps. For Triund itself the rules have changed more than once. Check with the forest office when you arrive rather than trusting what you read online, including here. What stays consistent is that the office is your first stop regardless.
The trailhead begins just past the office. You will know it.
The route, section by section
Dharamkot to Galu Devi Temple · 2 km
The first two kilometres are the most sociable stretch of the trail. Wide enough for two people side by side, forested, gentle on the knees. Dogs materialise from somewhere and walk with you for exactly as long as they choose. The path gains elevation slowly and you feel like you are being eased in.
Galu Devi Temple sits at around 2,200 metres and marks the first natural pause. It is a small shrine and a de facto checkpoint. People stop to tie a thread, drink from the taps, take stock of how their body is responding to the climb. The views open up for the first time here: McLeodganj behind you, the valley floor further back, the ridge you are heading toward ahead.
Galu Devi to Magic View · 3.5 km
The middle section is where the forest thins and the trail shows you what you are getting into. You are no longer being eased in. The path climbs more directly. The oak and rhododendron grow denser in spring. In March and April the rhododendron smell sits in the air like something deliberate, before you have even seen the first flower.
Magic View is a teahouse at a natural clearing where the Kangra valley opens out to the south and east. Stop here. Drink something warm. Not because you need to, but because this is one of the better views on the entire trail and most people walk straight past it chasing the top. The owner will tell you how far you are from the summit. He will tell you correctly.
From here the trail makes a decision: you are going up.
Magic View to Triund Top · 3.5 km
This is the section that earns its reputation. Locally it is called the 22 curves, for the exact number of switchbacks that carry you from the treeline to the meadow at the top. I have counted them. Twenty-two. Each one shows you a little more sky.
The final push is steep enough that first-timers feel it in the calves. It is not technical. There is no scrambling. But it is relentless, and that is where people who have not paced themselves find out. The instinct on the lower section is to move fast because the trail is easy. That is the wrong instinct. Save something for the curves.
At 2,875 metres, Triund Top is a wide open meadow that ends at a ridge. Nothing between you and the Dhauladhar. The wall of rock I grew up looking at from the valley is now behind you, and the other side drops away into the Kangra plains. It is, depending on conditions, either completely clear or inside a cloud. October is the most reliable month for clear.
Camping at Triund
There is permanent infrastructure at the top: tea stalls, basic tents, meals. You do not need to carry your own tent or sleeping bag, though I bring my own bag regardless. The provided ones are adequate but thin, and temperatures drop near zero even in May.
Dinner is typically Maggi, rice, dal: the kind of food that tastes excellent at altitude. Breakfast is tea and toast or eggs. Budget approximately ₹1,200–1,500 per person for tent accommodation with meals, though rates shift by season and operator. The camping operators are straightforward about pricing. Ask before you settle in.
Sunrise from the ridge
If you are doing Triund as a day return, you are doing the polite version. The overnight is the actual thing.
Sunrise from the ridge with the Dhauladhar behind you in the first grey light, before the valley below has woken up, before other trekkers are moving: that is what the mountain is for. The pink-to-gold transition across the snowfields takes about three minutes and then it is done. I have watched it many times. I have never managed to stop watching.
Set an alarm. Walk to the eastern edge of the meadow. Face the valley. Wait.
Best season
October is the clearest month. The monsoon has finished. The sky is sharp and cold. Visibility is at its best and you will likely get a view all the way to the Pir Panjal.
March to June works well for warmth and wildflowers. The rhododendrons bloom from March, and the lower forest section becomes genuinely spectacular. Expect afternoon clouds but generally clear mornings.
July and August are the months to avoid. The monsoon makes the trail muddy and leeches appear in numbers. Visibility is unreliable and the experience is a fraction of what it is in other months.
Winter camping is possible for experienced trekkers, but Triund accumulates serious snow from December onward. Beautiful, difficult, cold.
Cost and logistics
Getting there
- McLeodganj to Dharamkot: shared taxi ₹20–30, or walk 30–40 minutes uphill
- Permit: confirm current fees at the Dharamkot forest office on arrival
On the trail
- Tea, snacks, and meals available at Magic View teahouse and at the top
- Budget ₹150–200 for refreshments on a day return
Day return total: approximately ₹500–800 per person (transport, refreshments, permit)
Overnight total: approximately ₹1,200–1,500 per person for tent and meals, not including transport or permit
These are current estimates, not fixed rates. Costs shift by season and operator. The numbers above are a reasonable baseline for 2025–26.
What to carry
Day return
- Water: 2 litres minimum from the trailhead. Refill at Galu Devi.
- Layering: the top is 1,400 metres above the trailhead. What feels warm in McLeodganj will not feel warm at the ridge.
- Snacks. The climb burns quickly.
- A jacket, even in June. Wind at the ridge is different from wind in the valley.
- Sunscreen. UV exposure above treeline is significant.
Overnight additions
- Your own sleeping bag rated to at least -5°C. The provided ones are adequate in shoulder season but I would not rely on them in October or later.
- Head torch.
- Rain cover for your pack, March through October.
- Any personal medication. Altitude does not typically affect most people at 2,875 metres, but carry what you need.
Leave the large duffel in McLeodganj. A 20–25 litre day pack is enough.
Frequently asked questions
What is the altitude of the Triund trek?
Triund Top sits at 2,875 metres (9,350 feet). The Dharamkot trailhead is at approximately 1,457 metres. The altitude gain is around 1,400 metres over 9 kilometres.
How difficult is the Triund trek?
Easy to moderate. The first five kilometres are gentle forest trail. The final 3.5 kilometres, the 22 curves section, are the steepest and where the effort concentrates. First-time trekkers complete it regularly.
Do I need a permit for the Triund trek?
A permit is required to proceed beyond Triund toward Snowline Cafe and the higher camps. For Triund itself the requirement has changed at different points. Confirm current rules at the Dharamkot forest office when you arrive. Do not rely on older posts, including this one.
What is the best time to visit Triund?
October is ideal: clear skies, crisp air, the best visibility. March to June is good for wildflowers and the rhododendron bloom. Avoid July and August (monsoon: leeches, mud, poor visibility).
How long does the Triund trek take?
Four to five hours up, three hours down. Allow seven to eight hours total for a day return.
Can beginners do the Triund trek?
Yes. It is one of the most accessible Himalayan treks in this region for first-time trekkers. The 22 curves section demands some fitness, but no technical skill is required.
What does the Triund trek cost?
A day return runs approximately ₹500–800 per person, covering transport from McLeodganj to Dharamkot, trail refreshments, and the permit. Overnight adds tent accommodation and meals, which typically costs ₹1,200–1,500 per person. Budget trek.
Is camping allowed at Triund?
Yes. Tents, sleeping bags, and meals are available from operators at the top. Equipment is provided but carry your own sleeping bag rated to -5°C for October and later.
How do I get to the Triund trailhead?
The trailhead is at Dharamkot, not McLeodganj. From McLeodganj take a shared taxi (₹20–30) or walk uphill 30–40 minutes. The forest office and the trail start are both at Dharamkot.
Is the Triund overnight worth it?
Yes, without question. The day return shows you the trail. The overnight shows you the mountain. The sunrise from the ridge, before the valley has woken up, is what the trek's reputation is built on.
Triund is not a demanding trek. That is part of what makes it interesting. Almost anyone fit enough to walk uphill for four hours can reach 9,350 feet and stand on a Himalayan ridge. The mountain gives that to you freely. What you make of it: whether you push on to watch the sun come up over the Kangra valley, whether you sit long enough on the ridge to understand what you are looking at. That part is on you.
Planning the wider trip? When to Visit Himachal Pradesh covers timing month by month, The Best Base Towns in Himachal Pradesh covers where to stay before and after the ridge, and if you want to go further into the hills, the Kheerganga trek guide is worth reading next.